I do bracket all my night photography, for various reasons: for exposure blending, noise reduction, dynamic range extension etc etc. Unfortunately, Canon thinks that all photographers only need +-2EV brackets, unless you own one of the very big Canons, and that 30 seconds is also enough. Unfortunately, it isn’t enough for some of my night panoramas, and I was looking into ways to fix it (that included pleading to Canon, but we all know how far that goes).
So I decided to build my own long-exposure bracket controller, based on the arduino platform, with an Nokia LCD to actually have an user interface, other than a red button, write my own piece of software and test it last night… I call the gadget “Bracketmeister 0.32″ for now. It works like a charm. Now I can have +-3EV (what I was aiming for, but the it does up to +-10EV, possibly more), exposures from 1 sec to 2 hours, and up to 11 shots for each bracket set (can be more). Now no night panorama is impossible anymore.
Update: More info, diagram, images and source code after the break:
The setup is quite easy: big battery pack for cold long winter nights, a 2.5mm plug from a unused cell-phone earplug (fits perfect into Canon EOS that don’t have the N3 connector), and a red button to start the bracket sequence, just minor soldering work, most time went into the software, which is quite easy: the mini joystick left/right takes the user to the next menu, up/down changes the values in the sub menus. It just needs a nice case.

In order to make it work, you need an arduino (or a clone), a Nokia LCD shield (I will try to order a monochrome LCD and write a simpler GUI), the Arduino 0.11 IDE (0.12 doesn’t work with the Nokia library), the Nokia library (install into arduino-0011/hardware/libraries)
If you are improving the code, it would be great if you share the changes with me again, to keep it open source. It is also very easy to implement an intervalometer into the software, making it possible to shoot HDR time lapse, maybe in V0.4, or to connect it to a panorama robot. And as with all projects like this, I take no responsibility if you break your own stuff.
Here is an example taken with the Bracketmeister.
Update: Hans Loepfe took my Arduino code and adopted it for his Nikon D300, and it seems to work well.
Commercial plug: if you are looking for a more finished product, and not a DIY solution like my Bracketmeister, please visit Steve’s blog at panocamera.com. He is selling a very elegant Nintendo DS mod, that is working with a number of Canons and Nikons.
Update: Steve has teamed up with HDRlabs and moved the NintendoDS project to the Open Camera Control.
Update (Summer 2009): I bought a Promote from promotesystems.com, because it was great to have super long exposures, but I also needed shorter exposures, and the Promote send the right commands via USB, and not just through the release pin like the Bracketmeister does, making the Promote more versatile for what I need. Unfortunately, this has left the Bracketmeister sitting in the drawer completely unused, so maybe I will repurpose it for something else.


erik
January 22nd, 2009
how do you manage the bracketing to ore than +-2EV and do you share the arduino sketch?
Umesh Bhatt
January 22nd, 2009
Very impressed with your images and your technique. Thanks for sharing your technology…i would like to learn more about this…can you share details please? Thanks!
Eduardo Pérez
January 22nd, 2009
I have been playing with almost the same idea for some time; I’m into night panoramas, and own a Canon camera too. Quite frankly, 30 sec. exposures are way too short sometimes, but only 3 exposures is just pathetic. Probably, I will go for the cheaper 2×16 LCD display, but that shop is interesting.
Congratulations, and many thanks.
Byron
January 26th, 2009
Very nice! What was your total hardware cost? I may try my hand at making one. Thanks for sharing.
Ingemar Bergmark
January 30th, 2009
I just got my gear, a Freeduino board and the Nokia LCD display. I downloaded Bracketmeister, and for me it works well with the 0.12 IDE!
I haven’t been able to connect it to my camera yet (waiting for the cable and some electronics), but I’ve tested the software on my board and it backets away…
nbl
February 1st, 2009
I think you guys will be interested in to this project
CHDK firmware
it is a third party firmware for cannon camera that allow you to do so much more, Even shoot in raw, and run custom scrips,
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK
REPLY FROM JOERGEN:
The CHDK project doesn’t include the DSLRs from Canon yet, nor am I aware of any such efforts for other cameras like Nikon. But In an ideal world, a modified firmware would indeed be a great fix for this problem. But so far, nobody has really come forward withit.
Tinkerbob
February 2nd, 2009
This reminds me of the touchshield at http://www.liquidware.com I bought one of those a few weeks ago…crystal clear image, touchscreen interface, and I can download games onto it and let my son play with the thing when I’m not using it. Pretty neat device. Where did you find the nokia LCD display? are they retail items?
Thank you,
Bob
Paul
February 3rd, 2009
quite nice to see how Arduino is used for bracketing.
I’ve made a robot to capture gigapixel panoramas using an Arduino Nano and a WII Nunchuck.
pic: http://abso.lutum.net/pics/m1/M1.jpg
Johnny.V...
February 3rd, 2009
Joergen,
Do you have the controller in a case?
Thanks!
mat
February 19th, 2009
really cool . I might build one myself.
Its a shame though that bulb modes the only way to go. A usb version would be much better
Hans
March 21st, 2009
Hello Joergen,
What a great solution!
I am building almost the same, thanks for sharing.
To me one question remains: Where exactly did you put the optocoupler? I don’t quite get it right. I see it in the drawing but do not know where to put it on the ARDUINO.
Hope you don’t mind to share this detail as well.
Thanks a lot, Hans.
Taki
April 2nd, 2009
That is a good view on New York, keep on with the good work ! If you want to see alot of nice pictures and articles about New York, you should visit the New York City blog. Have fun !
Frank
April 26th, 2009
Many photographers think HDR photography is a party trick but this is defiantly not true. High Dynamic Range Photography is a major part of the future of photography. HDR photography is a new technology so many photographers are skeptical or unfamiliar with it. Like in any business you have to learn the new technology or trends, ignoring it or being scared to learn something new will just get you left behind. Information is power.
Steve
May 6th, 2009
Update on my Arduino Bracket Meister:
I remembered that I had a broken shutter remote cable. In taking it apart I discovered that the wiring uses a four pin connector and that it exactly matched the spacing on my proto-board. Thus no soldering and it has a thicker cable.
It is a cheap Chinese made remote. The ADIDT M1-C1 Remote Cord.
jim jones
May 12th, 2009
this is so cool how you built this. i would love to build one. what is the total cost.
Alpay Kasal
July 1st, 2009
Looks great, now where can we see some of the photos that resulted from this project?
links please!
Jon
October 5th, 2009
Very cool project, I recently built something like this for doing HDR’s. I didn’t use an Arduino though, instead i just made a very simple shell script in Linux that uses gphoto2 to control the camera remotely.
It works really well and all you need is a USB cable and a laptop.
Lets see some pics!